Depart Ohakune between 7.30 and 8.00am for the river. At Ohinepane the canoes and barrels are unloaded and the guides will show you how to pack your canoe. The first day includes lunch at Poukaria Campsite, we paddle past the old riverboat landing at Kirikau and take a short walk at MaraeKowhai. View the Ohura falls, and the War and Peace Poles that were erected by the Hau Hau warriors. It's then a short paddle to the first night's camp at Maharanui.
Towering rata, rimu and kowhai trees give a unique jungle setting for your first campsite, Maharanui, which is only accessible by boat. Listen out for the birdsongs of the native tui, fantail and on a special occasion, the brown kiwi. Facilities are basic.
The gorge starts to narrow and you leave the last road access point behind at Whakahoro, the second and final mooring point for the Houseboat. You pass Laceys and Wades landings and several old Maori Kaianga. Later in the morning you pass Mangapapa campsite, Man of War Bluff, Kirikiriroa where the river does a huge horseshoe turn, the Verandah, the Whirlpool and on down to Tamatea's Cave and a possible lunch stop at Ohauora campsite. There is plenty of time for stops and there are safe places to get out and swim. Camp at John Coull Hut and campsite.
The remote John Coull campsite is nestled in the forest amongst a mix of rata, rewarewa, rimu, tawa and kowhai trees. Pitch your tent and camp under the stars; drift off to sleep listening to birdsong and the sound of the river. Facilities are basic.
Breakfast and on the river at 9am. A morning paddle past the Tangarakau and Whangamomona rivers, Mangawaiiti campsite, and Otumangu landing, one of the post WW1 faming settlements. Shortly afterwards you see the first pine trees since Whakahoro (planted by the early settlers), and you stop at the Mangapurua for lunch and a walk to the Bridge to Nowhere (45 min each way). Dinner and hot showers at the lodge or cabins. Note: book early to ensure a bed at the lodge.
Enjoy your lodge accommodation high above the river and surrounded by native bush. Located deep in the Whanganui National Park, the Bridge to Nowhere Lodge is only accessible by foot, boat or helicopter which means often it is just you and your group here for the night. Check out the nearby glow worm cave and star-gaze under the clear night skies. Facilities include fully equipped kitchen, lounge and dining room, hot showers and comfortable beds.
After a leisurely breakfast there is a walk to the Matemateonga track and up to the Puketotara hut, with a view across to Mt Ruapehu. After returning to the lodge you are back on the river for a short paddle until lunch. You pass Kahura landing and one of the locations for the filming of “River Queen”. It is an hours paddle through the steep gorge until the river cascades through Ngaporo rapid and past the Mangaio stream and Mangaio rock where several of the early eyebolts can still be seen that were winching points for the riverboats. On down to Pururoto Caves — your final campsite. There is a big eddy to swim in, the caves to visit, and it is the only campsite on the river where you can have a fire! Dinner overlooking the river.
The Pururoto campsite has great open spaces and a firepit, allowing you to enjoy the evening serenity around the open fire. Fantastic scenic views are on offer, as well as a walk up into the native bush for wildlife spotting.
After breakfast, we begin our paddle through one of the most peaceful sections of the river. Admire the massive canyon walls, the sides dripping with moss and ferns. Pass by the filming locations used for the movies River Queen and Utu. Navigate the exciting Ngaporo rapid before stopping for a break. Next, paddle into the beautiful Mangaio stream, explore the Puraroto cave and navigate the legendary Autapu rapid. From Autapu, there are several more fun rapids, followed by our first signs of civilisation - telephone poles and farmland. After our last big rapid, land at Pipiriki, where we load the gear and embark on an hour's drive back to Ohakune.
