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Ultimate North Island

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DAY 1

Auckland - Tarawera

Up to 10 km (6.2 miles), 3 hours hiking, elevation +480 m (15 ft) -380 m (1,200 ft)

Meet your guide and fellow hikers at 7:00am in downtown Auckland and depart south toward Rotorua, with a café stop on route to fortify those who missed breakfast. Rotorua is renowned for its steaming thermal vents, bubbling mud-pools and stunning lakes. The area is also rich in Māori and early European history, including the violent 1886 Mt Tarawera eruption which buried a Māori village.

We'll arrive at Lake Tarawera, where we catch the noon water taxi to access the trail's midsection. Here, we hike alongside the clear waters of Lake Tarawera, enjoying the shade that towering tree ferns and ignimbrite cliffs offer. Along the way, you can take a dip in the lake at one of the small pumice beaches. The trail offers glimpses of the expansive wilderness of forests, lakes, and volcanoes in the distance.

Tonight we stay in open-plan log cabins. Together we prepare our evening meal and settle in for the night before the adventure ahead. During the evening or the following morning, we'll prepare our gear and pack our backpacks, ready for our two-day hike in the rainforest. Includes lunch and dinner.

Hike alongside the clear waters of Lake Tarawera.
Accommodation

Rotorua Thermal Holiday Park is a campground with great facilities, including three hot pools, a swimming pool, all on-site and available for guests to use free of charge. Showers and toilets are in close proximity to the log cabins for peace of mind. We sometimes camp and sometimes use cabins.

Rotorua-Thermal-holiday-Park.jpg
DAY 2

Tarawera - Whirinaki

15 km (9.3 miles), 5 hours hiking, elevation +650 m (2,100 ft) -430 m (1,400 ft)

After packing all our kit and driving east, into the rugged forest ranges of Te Urewera. This is the traditional home of the Tūhoe (Māori tribe) and one of the last places to have been reached by European settlers.

By late morning, we'll reach the Whirinaki Forest trail. This is a preserved remnant of the vast forests believed to have covered the supercontinent of Gondwana more than 150 million years ago. Our first hike follows the beautiful Whirinaki River through towering podocarp rainforest up to a forest clearing. Here, a simple kiwi-style backcountry hut stands beside the river. Tonight, we cook dinner together and with time for an evening fire and chat, ease into the wilderness at your pace with the choice to sleep in the hut or camp under the stars. Includes breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Urewera-Whirinaki wilderness, vast lowland areas untouched by civilisation.
Accommodation

Whirinaki Hut is a 25-bunk Department of Conservation hut with living area and a spacious kitchen complete with cosy fire. The hut is superbly located, tucked into a clearing of beech trees alongside the Whirinaki River. Cool down with a refreshing swim in the river after an enjoyable day of hiking. Camping sites can be found in the large grassy area just in front of the hut.

Whirinaki-Hut.jpg
DAY 3

Whirinaki

16 km (10 miles),7 hours hiking, elevation +450 m (1,480 ft) -700 m (2,300 ft)

This morning we continue a short distance up the main valley before crossing into a neighbouring river valley using a rougher, lesser-used stream trail. This is Whirinaki at its wildest, with towering forest and few visitors. We often spot whiō (blue ducks) and robins, and hear the distinctive call of the kākā (bush parrot), the route gives a real taste of New Zealand backcountry hiking.

We'll stop at a small backcountry hut for a relaxed lunch and a memorable splash down a river section before eventually rejoining the first section of valley we started from yesterday, completing the loop.

A 20-minute drive takes us to a cabin on a nearby rural property. Relax after a long day, enjoy a warm shower and unwind by the fire pit, sipping on a beer or wine. Includes breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Hike beneath towering tree ferns and through some of New Zealand's most magnificent podocarp rainforest trees.
Accommodation

The accommodation at Whirinaki Adventures is a small set of basic cabins and units beside Tony and Hayley’s (who operate the shuttle service to the trailhead for us) rural home. A couple of showers, bathrooms and a fire pit to sit around. Simple and completely out in the countryside.

DAY 4

Whirinaki - Whakapapa

Up to 3 km (2 miles), 1.5 hours hiking +/-55 m (180 ft)

We start the day with a drive to the Volcanic Plateau and its myriad natural wonders. Explore an extraordinary thermal park, bathe in a natural hot river and view the impressive Huka Falls. Feel the spray here as the mighty Waikato River, New Zealand’s longest, plunges 11 metres into a stadium-like pool. 

Later we arrive at Lake Taupō, New Zealand's largest lake. Incredibly, this 600 square kilometre crater lake was formed in 186AD by the most powerful volcanic explosion in recorded history.

At Taupō, we grab our takeaway food and head to a lovely lake-side spot. Here we can relax on the unusual pumice beach and in summer enjoy an evening swim before continuing to our lodge accommodation near Whakapapa Village, Tongariro National Park. Includes breakfast and lunch.

Bath in a natural hot river.
Accommodation

Located in Whakapapa Village at the foot of Mount Ruapehu, Skotel Alpine Resort offers a friendly informal atmosphere. Stay in the comfy Backpacker rooms, twin and sometimes triple share. Sheets and towels are provided, and bathroom and kitchen facilities are communal.

Or The Park Hotel in the nearby National Park town, twin and sometimes triple person share, ensuite rooms. Sheets and towels are provided.

P1050541-skotel2.JPG
DAY 5

Tongariro Northern Circuit

Up to 15 km (9.5 miles), 6 hours hiking +/-300 m (1,000 ft)

Tongariro National Park is the oldest National Park in New Zealand and the fourth oldest in the world. In 1993, the park became a UNESCO mixed cultural and natural World Heritage Site.  Most visitors experience the famous Tongariro Alpine Crossing, but few explore the more remote and drier east side of this remarkable volcanic landscape as we do. (Occasionally we hike the Tongariro Northern Circuit in reverse)

This morning, we'll sort out gear and pack our backpacks ready for our two nights away and late morning, we hike out the door. Heading east, we climb gently through open tussock country and across the saddle between Ruapehu and Ngāuruhoe. The views become increasingly dramatic as we enter the heart of the park. By late afternoon, we have descended to Waihohonu Hut, set beside a quiet stream among pockets of mountain beech forest. This is a wonderful place to relax, enjoy the alpine surroundings, and settle into life on the trail. Includes breakfast lunch and dinner.

Hike the Tongariro Northern Circuit through open tussock country and across the saddle between Ruapehu and Ngāuruhoe.
Accommodation

Waihohonu Hut is a modern 28-bunk Department of Conservation hut located on the Tongariro Northern Circuit Great Walk. Facilities are basic but comfortable, with bunk beds, mattresses, wood stove, common room and toilets. We often camp at the adjacent campsite but use the hut facilities.

Waihohonu-Hut.jpg
DAY 6

Tongariro Northern Circuit

8.5 km (5 miles), 3 hours hiking +650 m (2,100 ft) -350 m (1,150 ft)

Today’s destination, Oturere Hut is a shorter distance, which gives ample time to explore. Depending on conditions and the group, we may take a more adventurous off-trail hike across ash-moraine ridges and below lava cliffs to a spring or a viewpoint above a remote lake (additional 2-4 hours), or visit the clear waters of Ohinepango Springs (40 min).

Enjoy the park’s extraordinary landscape of active volcanoes and lava valleys in its three main peaks: Ruapehu, Tongariro and Ngāuruhoe. Ngāuruhoe starred as Mount Doom in Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings films. We later traverse across this stony desert to an alpine hut situated on the edge of an old lava flow. We usually sleep in Oturere Hut, but occasionally we need to camp. Includes breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Ngāuruhoe starred as Mount Doom in Peter Jackson’s Lord of the Rings films.
Accommodation

Oturere Hut is a 26-bunk Department of Conservation hut located in Tongariro National Park and has bunk beds, mattresses, wood stove for heating, common room, and toilets. The hut was replaced 2026. 

P1070234-Oturere-Hut-dinner.jpg
DAY 7

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

Up to 12 km (7.5 miles), 6 hours hiking, elevation +500 (1,600 ft) -800 m (2,600 ft)

Today, we hike through the moon-like valley of lava flows and ash fields before climbing steeply to the remarkable Emerald Lakes, which have graced the covers of many guidebooks. From here we join the spectacular Tongariro Alpine Crossing. The next few hours of hiking takes us through an unforgettable wonderland of lava valleys, steaming craters and brooding volcanoes before our final descent through bonsai-like alpine foliage and alongside mineral-infused streams. In good conditions, we have the option of climbing high on the volcanic peaks.

A short drive takes us back to our lodge in the heart of the National Park – the perfect place to relax with a beer and enjoy million-dollar volcanic views before dining in the alpine village. Includes breakfast and lunch.

Off-trail hiking leads us over ash-moraine ridges to a viewpoint beside a remote lake.
Accommodation

Stay in Whakapapa Village at the foot of Mount Ruapehu, at friendly informal hotels/lodges. Stay in the comfy Backpacker rooms, twin and sometimes triple share. Sheets and towels are provided, and bathroom and kitchen facilities are communal. 

DAY 8

Whakapapa - Wellington

1km/1-2 hours hiking

Driving south, we leave the volcanoes to descend through the beautiful river valleys of the Rangitikei and along the coast to Wellington, where we arrive mid-afternoon after a café break. Wellington is so much more than just New Zealand’s capital. It is also the nation’s stylish hub for arts, culture, cafés and politics. Enclosed by hills and a harbour, this compact city has many attractions within easy walking distance.

Options include enjoying the National Museum of New Zealand (Te Papa) or watching the political shenanigans of the ‘Beehive’ (Parliament House). Many visitors immerse themselves in the vibrant café scene and the accessible downtown area. Includes breakfast.

Relax and enjoy the lively atmosphere of Wellington - some well earned city revelling!

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